iTree: An iPod Dock Made from a Tree

City: Graz
Country: Austria
Client: Studio project
Year: 2010
Credits: Trenner & Friedl
www.trenner-friedl.com/
Tischlerei Lenz
tischlerei-lenz.at/


Adding Value To The World, one Post At A Time
Posted by gjblass at 3:21 PM 8 comments
Labels: iphone accessories, ipod accesories, speakers
by Jaymi Heimbuch
from http://www.treehugger.com/
image via YouTube video
I think this just might be the greenest speaker for iPhones that we've come across yet. It's a piece of bamboo. And that's it. Just a piece of bamboo...but it works wonderfully.
The bamboo speaker is essentially a 1-foot length of bamboo with a slot carved out of the top for the iPhone to snuggle into. The sound reverberates through the pipe and amplifies the tunes you're listening to. And that's about all there is to this simple speaker -- and it seems to work quite well if you listen to the video:
We've also got to point out that bamboo is one of the most eco-friendly materials this item could use -- not only does it skip plastics and metals altogether, but it's one of the fastest-growing renewable wood sources.
You can back the project on Kickstarter and help the product become a reality, but you'll have to make a move fast. There's less than a month left in the fundraising effort and they have a long way to go to meet the $10,000 goal. Of course, you could also easily make this speaker yourself if you care to spend an hour or so cutting the slot in t he top of a length of bamboo.
Posted by gjblass at 2:36 PM 0 comments
Labels: consumer technology, iphone accessories, Sound, Sound Waves, speakers
Posted by gjblass at 10:49 AM 0 comments
Labels: apple iphone, Apple's iPhone, consumer technology, iphone accessories, Sound, Sounds, speakers
KOOSTIK is not intended as a replacement to electronic amplifiers in all situations. If you're into Heavy Metal at high volume or heavy sub base sounds, KOOSTIK may not be your cup of tea. But if you like intimate vocals and instrumentals in relaxed settings, KOOSTIK will blow you away (gently of course).
Posted by gjblass at 2:26 PM 1 comments
Labels: apple iphone, green, speakers
By Ben Drawbaugh
From http://www.engadget.com/
New Subwoofer Goes "Deep" SpeakerCraft introduces the BoomTomb
RIVERSIDE, CA: September 21, 2010 SpeakerCraft, America's original manufacturer of in-wall speakers announced a new outdoor subwoofer to compliment its Outdoor Elements, Ruckus and OG series speakers. It has been appropriately named the BoomTomb because of the fact that the majority of the enclosure is buried underground with only a small, hooded port exposed above the surface.
"Outdoor audio continues to be a huge category for us" commented Dave Donald, SpeakerCraft's V.P. of Marketing. "Adding critical low end reinforcement to our already broad assortment of exterior loudspeakers is a natural progression and a benefit to dealers who are always looking for ways to improve sound quality outdoors."
The BoomTomb consists of a poly/resin enclosure that houses a ten-inch long throw woofer mounted in a support that is in the center of the internal space. Sound is then vented through a port that extends through the top of the enclosure. The port is the only visible part of the speaker once it is installed. A hood covers the top of the port to protect the internal workings
from water and debris. The woofer is powered by a dedicated 250 watt amplifier that is designed to be placed with the source equipment and attached via standard speaker cable.
The BoomTomb will ship in the fourth quarter. Pricing is still to be determined.
SpeakerCraft, established in 1976, devoted itself for more than a decade to the design and development of architectural loudspeakers and became known as the prime OEM for many well-known, in-wall speaker brands in the field. In marketing its own brand, now one of the
widest lines of architectural speakers and electronics in the industry, SpeakerCraft brings with it years of experience and a dedication to dealer satisfaction.
Posted by gjblass at 10:09 AM 0 comments
Labels: outdoors, speakers, submerisble
By John Sciacca
The first “real” A/V component I ever bought was a subwoofer — a glorious 15-inch beast that made no attempt to hide what it really was: a big, black, utterly style-less cube. At the time, there weren’t really any other options available, so adding a sub meant a big, black cube. My wife, possibly sensing that our future might be connected with this whole “audio” thing, tolerated the sub but never really grew to love it.
Nowadays, most people take one look at a “traditional” sub and say, “Do I have to have that?” The implication is that a “yes” will kibosh the entire system. But the subwoofer’s importance has increased until it’s become an almost indispensable part of any surround system. As style demands have dictated a transition to smaller and less obtrusive models, the ability of speakers to offer any bass reproduction has gone by the wayside. Beyond the impact and emotion they add to the home theater experience, subwoofers lend the weight and depth crucially missing in small speakers.
Fortunately, technological advances like new driver designs and powerful digital amplification have resulted in so many great options that you’ll almost never come across a situation where a sonically and visually appealing solution can’t be found. Below are a few options to consider for adding some stealthy bass to your system.
Go Small
There are tons of subwoofers not much larger than a bowling ball. Because of their size, these mighty micros offer lots of discreet placement options, like under a table, behind a plant, or behind some drapes. But don’t expect these subs to be cheaper just because they’re smaller. “Miniaturization and concealment come with a price,” Velodyne’s Joe Finn points out. “A small sub works harder and must be made of better materials, have a more powerful amp, and so on to produce the same quantity and quality of bass as a sub with plenty of cabinet volume.” So you can have good and small — just don’t expect cheap.
Go In-Wall We’ve enjoyed in-wall speakers for 27 years, but subwoofers have only recently made the migration into the wall. Part of the problem is the technology required to make this kind of sub perform well without shaking your walls apart. Sunfire’s Eric Harper commented on the importance of decoupling “the shaking force of the woofer from the wall.” Sunfire’s approach is to use some good old-fashioned physics — in particular, Newton’s Third Law of Motion (“for every action there is an equal but opposite reaction”). | ![]() |
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“By employing a weighted antishake device that’s wired out of phase with the woofers, [Sunfire’s in-wall sub achieves] a five times reduction in the vibration coming from the cabinet,” Eric says.
Chris Brunhaver from BG Radia, inventors of the world’s first THX Ultra 2-certified in-wall subwoofer, echoes Harper’s comments: “The most significant challenge is designing and installing them so as to not mechanically vibrate the surrounding structure. That sort of vibration seriously degrades quality and it colors the sound. I wouldn’t consider using an in-wall subwoofer that doesn’t have a specific technology to address this important issue.”
Go In-Ceiling
Since bass frequencies are mostly nondirectional, the ceiling can be another great place for a hidden-sub install. This option works especially well if the other speakers are also in the ceiling since this helps to “marry” the bass information to the other channels, creating a more cohesive effect.
Go In-Floor
If your floor is a concrete slab, you should probably skip this option. But if your home is built on a crawl space or above a basement, then the floor can be a terrific location. Mount the sub between the floor joists, replace the traditional speaker grille with an HVAC register, and your guests will be wondering where all that great sound is coming from.
Go Under-Furniture
For another stealthy install, consider the suggestion from Carl Kennedy of JL Audio to position the sub “under the sofa firing straight up into the seats.” The same thin models that go inside walls can also slide under some sofas. Besides the benefits of keeping the sub out of sight, this is a great install for areas where excessive bass can disturb the neighbors (like in a condo or apartment) or wake sleeping family members. Since the signal is coming from literally inches away, you can greatly lower the volume level and still get a really nice tactile response.
Go In-Cabinet
Clearing out a compartment in your cabinetry or entertainment center offers another great place to conceal a sub. Sunfire’s Harper recommends a front-firing model for in-cabinetry use. “Side- and down-firing subs tend to create more cabinet rattle since they send sound waves directly into a cabinet surface.”
Al Baron from Polk Audio gave the same forward-firing recommendation, and also advised, “Keep the space around the woofer enclosure to a minimum to reduce unwanted resonances from this ‘secondary enclosure.’ The cabinet’s interior will have a resonant frequency all its own that will exaggerate this range unnecessarily, muddying up the bass. If you can’t minimize the space, stuff fairly dense batting or insulation around the sides and back to reduce the level of this resonance.” If you plan to hide the sub behind closed doors, make sure the doors aren’t solid but rather a material like speaker-grille cloth or perforated metal to allow bass to flow into the room. If the idea of altering your cabinet doors is a turn-off, consider James Loudspeaker’s Powerpipe sub, which fires bass through a tube that ports into your room through a vent in the subwoofer. Very slick.
Build A False Wall
If you like the idea of an invisible sub but need something massive like Definitive Technology’s SuperCube Trinity Reference, JL Audio’s Gotham, or Velodyne’s DD-18, you can build a new wall in the front of the room. The speakers can sit in the space behind this wall, which can be finished with a variety of sound-friendly fabrics that let you hide all of your speakers, regardless of their size.
While hitting up manufacturers for their tips and tricks on getting the most sub out of discreet locations, it quickly became apparent that there was just too much information to cover in one column. So next month, I’m going to relay some of the terrific things I gleaned from the sub makers to help you get the best bass performance from your system regardless of the type of sub you use.
Posted by gjblass at 2:37 PM 0 comments
Labels: speakers
A speaker system can cost as little as $35. Or as much as $350,000. As a normal person, you probably have just one question about speakers that cost as much a Ferrari: What. The. Hell.
How Speakers WorkEspecially when you consider just how simple the overall mechanism behind a standard speaker is: It moves air. Essentially, what happens in a speaker—loudspeaker, to be technical—is that the alternating current from an amplifier runs to the speaker and through the voice coil (which is just, wait for it, a coil of wire) turning the coil into an electromagnet. That, in turns, creates a magnetic field between it and the permanent magnet in the driver. As the current alternates between positive and negative, the magnets are attracted and repulsed, moving the cone back and forth. Voila, it emits the soothing sounds of Bach or Korn. (Driver diagram from Wikipedia's unusually exceptional loudspeaker article.)
But that's probably not quite what you think of when you hear "speaker." You're probably thinking of a box with a circle thing and maybe a hole in it. That's actually a loudspeaker system, and it actually has more than one kind of speaker inside of it, called drivers. That's because the driver tuned to deliver high frequencies—a tweeter—ain't so good at delivering bass, which is why you need a woofer or subwoofer (low and lower). And then you've got mid-range speakers—for mid-range sounds—in higher-end systems. Your average GENERIC SPEAKER COMPANY set skips this middleman. So generally two or more drivers are stuffed in a box or cabinet, called an enclosure.
Lovely, but that doesn't explain what separates these $107,000 YG Acoustics Anat Reference II speakers from the $50 Logitech Z-2300s on my desk—which are even THX certified. So, we enlisted some help: Cnet's Audiophiliac Steve Guttenberg, who lives and breathes speakers ranging from the sensible to the ludicrous, and Paul DiComo and Matt Lyons, speaker guys who came from Polk and are now at Definitive Audio.
If you read our profile of Audiophile Maximo Michael Fremer "Why We Need Audiophiles," it probably won't surprise that when initially asked simply, "What the difference between ten dollar speakers and ten thousand dollar speakers?" the Definitive guys' initial answer was, "Well, it ought to be that they sound better." Even Steve told us, "You can't apply a Consumer Reports kind of index to something that's as subjective as audio quality."
No, but seriously.
The Goal of a Loudspeaker
A speaker's ultimate goal is "to sound like reality"—the elusive dragon that every audiophile chases—so on a broad, not-very-useful level, how close it comes to matching that reality is the difference between good and bad, expensive and cheap speakers. To be slightly more technical, the "spec" is clarity: The lower the distortion of the original sound it recreates, the better the speaker. In fact, basically every other spec, every confusing number you read on the side of a box is actually totally meaningless, according to both Steve and the Definitive guys. Steve singles out watts as "one of the more useless specifications ever created." If you have to look for a number when buying speakers, Steve said one that's "kind of useful" is sensitivity/efficiency, which would be something like 90dB @ 1 watt, which relates how loud a speaker will play at a given power level.
Three Characteristics
But when pressed, there are a few qualities Paul and Matt from Definitive singled out in amazing speakers—what they call the big three:
• More dynamic range, or simply the ability to play louder without sounding like trash as you crank the volume. With good speakers, you want to keep cranking it up, like accelerating a fast car.
• Better bass. That doesn't mean louder, "but better." It's more melodic, and not muddy—you can actually hear individual notes, an upright acoustic bass being plucked.
• "A very natural timbre." Timbre is the "tone color" or how natural the sound is—if you played the voice of someone you know on a speaker with excellent timbre, it would sound exactly like them. Or if two different instruments play the same note, you'd be able to tell them apart very easily and cleanly.
Beyond that, what audiophiles are looking for—which Mahoney alludes to in the audiophile profile—is a speaker's ability to create an image, the picture. That is, its ability to create a sense of three-dimensional sound. The defining problem of designing speakers, say the guys from Definitive, is that "physics is dogmatic." So every speaker is built around a set of compromises.
Size
To put that in some concrete—rather than seemingly religious—terms, you can't have a small speaker that sounds good. So one defining quality of six-figure speakers is that they are large. They have bigger woofers and tweeters. More surface area means better sound. There are also simply more drivers—every driver you add is like when you add another string to a guitar, to create a better-nuanced sound. So, for instance, a $300 speaker from a "quality manufacturer" you'll get a 5 1/4-inch woofer and a 1-inch tweeter. A $3000 pair of speakers might have two 5 1/4 mid-range drivers and then a 10-inch woofer.
Build Quality
Build quality is the other thing. A "dead box," or an enclosure that doesn't create any sounds of its own—since that's distortion—is key and something that costs a lot of money. You just want sound from the drivers themselves. The quality of the woofer and tweeter themselves, obviously, comes into play—their ability to handle more power, since that's what translates into volume.
At the extreme end, Steve says, they can just handle more power without breaking—as the copper wire inside heats up, it can deform or melt, and the driver gets messed up. Pricey speakers don't do that. In terms of exotic materials or construction, Steve mentioned ribbon tweeters, which are only in the highest-end speaker systems—they're "literally a piece of aluminum foil that's suspended between magnets that vibrates back and forth" producing excellent clarity. Better speakers also have intricate dividing networks to make sure the right signals go to the right place—they get more complicated as the price goes up.
Dollar Figures
So how much do you have to spend to get a good system in the eyes (ears?) of an audiophile? Definitive recommends $1000 for a home-theater component setup. (In other words, don't buy a home theater in a box.) You can also get a pretty decent pair of "neutral, natural sounding" speakers for $300—they "won't knock your ass" and won't be great as some things, but they'll be alright. There's no magic one-size-fits-all speaker system, however. It depends on the room and the situation. (If your couch is against a wall, skip the 7.1 surround, says Steve.) Heavier speakers tend to sound better than lighter ones, though that's not an absolute.
But what's the upper limit? Well, there isn't any. Paul from Definitive said he heard these $65,000 Krell Modulari Duo last month and "was mezmerized." It's like wine to oenophiles, Paul said. As Steve puts it most simply: "To people who are into it, it's worth it."
Posted by gjblass at 4:43 PM 0 comments
Labels: audio, Dolby, feature, Giz Explains, Listening test, Logitech, Loudspeakers, music, Polk, Sound, speakers, top
Posted by gjblass at 3:49 PM 0 comments
Labels: corn starch, speakers