The Recession Special

New Yorkers will recognize "Recession Special" as the name given to the delicious and enticing deal (two hot dogs and a drink for $3.50) offered at Gray's Papaya. But that come-on might work just as well for the Hyundai Genesis. We theorized in our head-to-head match-up between the Hyundai Genesis V-8 and the Mercedes-Benz E550 that your local Hyundai dealer won't be taking many Benzes in on trade any time soon, but that was last week. Since then we've lost all hope for our economy, and hell, anything could happen.

If you're buying a Genesis because it's such a screaming deal, you're better off ignoring the top model, which Hyundai officially calls the Genesis 4.6. That car is a Recession Special plus an extra hot dog — and who really needs three wieners? The V-6 model is just right for driving in moderation and won't make you hurt every time you get out to refuel, as it achieves an impressive 27 mpg on the highway. Power comes from a 290-hp, 3.8-liter with variable valve timing and a block and heads cast in aluminum. While lacking the V-8's peak performance, the six revs more freely and its powerband feels wider. Plus, the car weighs 258 pounds less than the Genesis 4.6, and that translates to more nimbleness when the roads start looking like a squiggle of mustard on a red hot.

But therein lies the base Genesis's one notable flaw. For cost-saving reasons, it loses the electric motor that helps squeeze some firmness into the V-8's steering. The result is a hydraulic system that feels as vague and overboosted as the lower-priced Sonata's, making the car harder to place at the times you most need to. Current Hyundai owners will be right at home, but buyers coming over from sportier rivals will have to say goodbye to steering feel.

The six also doesn't come with all the fixings the V-8 gets standard, though most of them can be piled on at an extra charge. Among those are rain-sensing wipers, 18-inch wheels, a 14-speaker Lexicon stereo, adjustable pedals, and a sunroof and sunshade. The V-8 does have a few exclusive items — chrome exterior moldings, a woodgrain wheel, and ultra-premium leather — but the base leather is plenty soft. Like grains of celery salt on a Chicago dog, those are things you wouldn't miss if you didn't know they were offered.

When the stock brokers and big-city realtors come rolling in to ditch their four-wheeled signs of better times, they'll probably look past the steering and be impressed by the Hyundai's comfort and class-leading space, which will come in handy after a few months of hot dogs instead of sushi. Like the Genesis 4.6, the base car's suspension is too soft to be considered sporty, but it's perfect for a daily driver. Hyundai estimates that 80 percent of Genesis models sold will be as V-6s, and we're happy to say that you won't be missing out by joining the majority. With a base price of $33,000, it's as good a deal as two dogs and a drink at New York's favorite frankfurtery.